Groupset (groupo)

This refers to mechanical parts that make up your bike and includes gears, brakes, pedals and everything in between. Below is a complete breakdown of parts and what you should consider when choosing them. 

It should be said that buying a complete groupset is by far the easiest and safest way to go. Safer in that you will be sure that everything will fit together.

There are three main brands that create entire groupsets. Shimano, Sram, Campagnolo 

They're not cross compatible but there are smaller brands that make specific parts of the groupset like the cranks or the bottom bracket that can be used if creating your own unique groupset.

But not all of them will be able to fit all of the main brands. It can get quite technical but I'm going to do my best to explain it all as simply as possible. This might mean I don't consider every scenario but this is done to reduce confusion.

If you're interested in learning more about the different types of group set brands then click here.

So let's pick one part at a time 

Brake and Gear levers

Ok, so I know I said one part at a time but nowadays these are one and the same.

That is assuming you're going to use drop handlebars. I recommend the use of drop handlebars as they offer you much more places you can put your hands.

This can be crucial when you spend long days in the saddle when a different ridding position can help manage a niggling pain.

That being said, if you want to use a straight handle bar then you will have a different brake/gear set up. They will be separate units much the same as a mountain bike setup.

For most of us, we will be using drop handlebars so I'm going to focus on that. The brakes/gear levers are attached vertically on the curve of the bar. 

How do they work?

Shimano's brakes work when you pull the brake lever towards you but when you push the brake lever to the side it will change gear. They have a smaller lever that aligns with the back of the brake lever and when you want to change gear the other way then push it to the side. 

Sram is similar. The brakes work the same way but the brake lever doesn’t move to the side. They too have another smaller lever tucked in behind but it operates differently. When wanting to shift up you press the smaller lever sideway slightly until you hear a click. When you release the lever the gear will change. Pressing the lever further and it will shift down gear. This can take a little getting used to but the gear change is very responsive.

Sometimes when changing gear with shimano you can over shoot the gear you intend on selecting without actually engaging. When the shifter is depressed your gear will then drop into the gear you wanted.

For example, say you wanted to move from the 5th to the 4th cog. You might momentarily slip into 3rd before settling into 4th. This is by no means a deal breaker. After getting used to them this hardly ever happens. 

Campagnolo offer a similar set up when braking and even have a lever behind the brake just like shimano and sram but they have decided to use a button, which is operated by your thumb, to shift down the gears.

I can’t comment on how these work as I’ve never used them but I’ve never heard anything bad about them. They are by far the most expensive groupset of the three.

Going retro

If you wanted to go old school you can get a set of brake levers that do just that and have installed a set of downtube shifters.

If you do decide to go this way then you will have a much wider brand selection for your brake levers. Downtube shifters are so simple that it makes them much more reliable. They work by pulling on the gear cable when turning a lever attached to the downtube.

You're not relying on a mechanism within the gear shifter to select the right gear. I actually considered them for this simplicity but couldn’t neglect the ease of use of the dual levers. And the fact is that I have always used dual levers and never had a problem with them.

Another possible issue with downtube levers is if you are planning to use a frame bag. The bag could interfere with the levers

Regardless of which make you choose, you should always know the following before buying a set of dual levers?

You need to know;

• Type of Brakes
• Gear Ratio
• Gear change mechanism - Mechanical or Electronic
• Type of brakes - Rim brakes, mechanical disc or hydraulic disc

Rim and Mechanical disc brakes use a cable to activate the brakes. If using cables then your brake levers will need to be designed for that use.

Hydraulic brakes use hydraulic fluid to activate the brakes. So, obviously, make sure your levers are designed for that if using hydraulic brakes. When buying a hydraulic disc brake set the levers and brake calipers normally come together already filled with fluid.

If you are still deciding which type of braking system to use the below will help you make the right choice. It's worth noting that the below info is concentrating on the braking mechanism itself and not the brake lever

Rim brakes

As the name suggests, rim brakes use the wheels rim to double as a braking surface. The main advantage of rim brakes over disc brakes is that braking area is much longer.

This is because the diameter of a wheel is much bigger than a disc which means that it will heat up much less.

And if you want to get nerdy about it, the forces generated in the fork and frame are much less because the rim brake has much more leverage than on the wheel than on a disc. So this requires less power from the brake to slow down.

The downside to rim brakes is that if they are misaligned then the pads could wear into the tire or even slip under the hub and into the spoke.

But assuming you have a perfectly working set of rim brakes then to can still be outperformed by a good set of disc brakes, especially in the wet.

In wet conditions, dirt and grime from the road can easily get on to the rim meaning when you apply the brakes the pads have to remove to moisture and dirt before it can work to its full potential.

Rim brake pads also wear out much faster than disc brake pads. And what's worse is that the wheels rim will eventually wear out too meaning you will have to either replace them or just get another set of wheels. Neither of which is cheap. 

Types of rim brake

There are many different types of rim brakes, even a super rare hydraulic actuated rim brake.

The most common among them are V brakes and the side caliper brakes. The type you need will again depend on your bike. There are different mounting points on the frame and the fork can cater for the type of brake system. If you’re interested in finding out more about the different types of rim brake systems then click here to be brought to Wikipedia.

Disc brake 

Disc brakes work much the same way as the brakes on your car. A rotor is attached to the wheel hub. A brake caliper sits over the rotor. Within the caliper are two brake pads positioned each side of the rotor. When you want to stop the pads squeeze against the rotor bringing you to a stop.

The downside to disc brakes is that they squeal like a pig when they get wet. There are ways to stop this from happening but nothing permanent. It is so embarrassing when you go on a group ride.

The fact is, the dirt from the road will get into the pads and contaminant them over time. Maybe there are brands out there that don't squeal but I've been riding disc brakes for the past 15 years and sooner or later, they all squeal.

Types of disc brake

There are two main types of disc brake. Mechanical and Hydraulic. Mechanical use a cable to pull on a lever which in turn, squeezes the pads against the brakes. These work fine at first but as dirt from the road begins to contaminate the pads they will become less and less effective.

In fact, I once went straight through a crossroads as I was unable to stop. Luckily, I was on a quiet country road. Needless to say, that was the last time I cycled with those brakes.

Hydraulic brakes work the opposite way to mechanical. Instead of using a cable to pull on a lever, hydraulic fluid is pushed (compressed) into the brake caliper which squeezes the pads shut.

This is a much more powerful system meaning you just have to pull on the levers gently and you will be able to stop as fast as the traction of your wheels lets you.

Not only does this offer you reassurance when coming up the crossroads but when you've been on the bike for 3 days, stopping can be a bit of an issue with sore hands so being able to stop by just one or two fingers is a great addition.

Mounting type. - flat mounts or post mount

When disc brake technology made its way from mountain bikes the mounting style came with it. This is known as post mount. There are some subtle differences but the most obvious is that post mount calipers use an additional bracket and are bolted to the frames and fork.

The flat mount system was refined and is much neater and weight less than the post mount system. You will need to know which system you bike was designed to use before buying.

What Type Of Brake Rotor Do You Need?

Mounting type - Make sure you choose a rotor that is compatible with the wheel hub. The two options here are 6 bolt and center lock.

Diameter - This refers to the overall outside diameter of the rotor. Bigger diameters offer more braking power because they have more leverage.

There’s no need to go too big on road bikes, unless you’re carrying lots of weight. 160mm is more than enough stopping power, especially with hydraulic brakes.

You might notice on some mountain bikes that they have massive 203mm rotor on the front wheel. When you brake, most of the braking will be done by the front wheel as your weight moves forward. Having a more powerful front brake can help even out the forces needed to be applied to the levers.

Larger brakes can also help reduce the heat generated when braking.

Material - Almost all rotors are made from steel. At least the braking surface is. Some rotors will have aluminium or carbon arms attaching the outside braking surface to the hub. This is done to reduce weight.

There are full carbon options but I haven’t used them nor do I know anyone that has used them so I don’t know how effective they are but I have found this video on GMBN.

Cooling - when the brake pads rub against the rotor it causes friction which we all know causes heat. If this heat builds too much then you could have some loss of braking performance.

Rotors try to deal with this in different ways. Some use aluminium heat sinks to try to take the heat from the braking area such as Ultegra’s Ice Tech.

Others use a jagged edge with holes along the braking zone to try to get air to circulate around the rotor as much as possible. Perhaps, the most aggressive looking is Hopes Saw Blade.

How Do I Know Which Gear Ratio To Use?

Deciding on gear ratios is perhaps one of the most important things you can decide and I go into it in more detail below.

All you need to decide when buying gear levers is how many gears on the front and how many on the back.

Having a triple on the front gears (the chainring) allows you to have a really low gear. This is good if you have a pretty heavy bike and have lots of hills to tackle. It also means you don’t need to have as many gears on the back gears (the cassette) in order to obtain a wide variety of gears.

Nowadays, a double chainring is probably still the most popular but a single chainring is gaining popularity fast. This is due to the fact that the rear cassettes has more gears than they used to with an 11 speed being quite popular. You can even get a 12 speed now if needed ranging from 10 - 46 teeth.

I go into this in more detail below but just because you have two (or even three) chainrings doesn’t mean you have double the amount of gear. This is what makes a single chainring option very tempting.

So without actually choosing you gear ratios you will at least have to know how many gears you want on your chainring and cassette. The reason for this has to do with the indexing of your gears. When you shift gears the gear shifter pulls and lets go the cable a certain amount depending on the amount of gears you're intending on having.

For example, if you want a single chainring and eleven speed cassette then your chainring lever doesn’t need to be able to change gears meaning it will just be used for braking. The cassette lever will have to be designed for changing eleven gears. 

Gear mechanism - mechanical, electronic

And then there is the mechanism of actually changing the gear. We all know and love the faithful mechanical shifting mech.

It's been in use for the past 100 years and has only been slightly improved in that time. It's reliable and as long as it's well maintained then it will last for years.

However, mechanical gears do have one drawback and that's the cable. Cables tend to stretch after some use meaning it might not select the correct gear but this is easily adjustable.

In fact there is an adjustable barrel on every cable for this reason. (more about barrel adjusters below) 

Sometimes dirt gets into the gear cable housing making for a hard and sluggish gear change.

Electronic mechanisms fix all of these problems by replacing the cable with electrical wires. As a result, the gear shifters may look the same but will operate by the push of a button.

You also have more options on where you would like to place the buttons on your handlebars. I’ve even seen some placing them under the bar tape.

When you push the button a signal is sent to a servo motor within the gear mechanism which moves your chain into the desired gear.

The only drawback to this system is that you will have to charge a battery every so often. Every 2000 to 5000 kilometers, depending on how often you change gear.

I have heard of a guy who had been cycling the transcontinental and the servo motor burnt out leaving him having to cycle through the night with one gear.

Admittedly he said it was his fault. He was tired and left his finger on the button without pedaling, meaning the derailleur couldn’t move where it wanted.

I would also have my concerns in wet weather. Of course it is waterproof but I think it would be in the back of my mind. My phone is waterproof but I still wouldn’t test it.

What Type Of Front Derailleur Should You Get?

When you decide how many chainrings you want then you will have to get a derailleur. Front derailleurs are designed for either double or triple chainrings.

Obviously if you're running a single chainring then you won't need one at all because you wont be changing gear.

The only difference between a triple and a double front derailleur is that the chain guides are longer on the triple. This is to allow for a smaller chainring.

So technically a triple front derailleur can be used on a double but not the other way round.

If you have no intention of running a triple chainring then just go with a double derailleur. There’s no point in carrying around the extra length derailleur for no reason.

Compact Chainring

If you’re wondering what a compact chainset is then it is simply the difference in sizes of the largest and the smallest chainring in a double setup.

A standard chainset ratio might be something like a 53 - 39 while a compact chainset will be smaller (or more compact) at maybe 50 - 34.

Mounting the Front Derailleur

The next thing you need to be aware of before buying a front derailleur is how it's going to be attached to the bike. The two main options here are either clamp on or braze on.

Clamp on derailleurs are the more traditional type. Basically, it is clamped onto the downtube. This can be easily adjusted up and down the downtube depending on the size of the chainring you intend on using.

It works well on round downtube but nowadays tube shapes have changed significantly depending on the type of frame you have. To get around this, manufacturers have developed a braze on derailleur. The frame has a threaded hole where you can simply screw on the derailleur to the frame.

There is then an adjustable bracket on the derailleur to move it up and down if needed.

If you have a frame that has a round downtube but you can only get a braze-on derailleur then you can get and adapter the clamps onto your frame.

And finally it is up to you to decide on the brand you intend on using. I would advise using the same brand as you gear levers.

What type of Rear derailleur should you get?

Firstly, it's important that you know what the rear derailleur does. Yes, it changes gear but it also keeps your chain in tension as you change through your gears.

You see, the length of the path around your smaller gear is much shorter than the largest. If we were to put a long chain on for the biggest gears and then change down the chain would bounce around as it gets slack. 

There are short, medium and long derailleur cages. The length of the derailleur cage will determine the range between the largest and smallest gears. The cage is the part that houses the two jockey wheels.

How do you determine the length of derailleur cage?

You first need to find the gear differential of your desired gears. This is easy to calculate. First find the difference between the largest and smallest gear in your chainring and then your cassette and then add them together.

For example, If my chainring was 50 - 34 and my cassette was 32 - 11 then the math would be like this.

50 - 34 = 16.

32 - 11 = 21.

21 + 16 = 37.

In this example the gear differential is 37. Now before you buy a rear derailleur you need to check the capacity. Make sure the capacity is the same or bigger than the differential.

Rear Derailleur Mounting Type

There is direct mount and standard mounting derailleurs and it will depend on the frame and/or rear hanger.

Most of the time, a standard mounted derailleur will be what you need. This is when you screw the derailleur on to a standard mech hanger. There is a link, known as the B-link, that bridges the mech hanger and the derailleur.

On a direct mounted derailleur a specially designed bracket is used to hold the derailleur meaning the B-link isn’t needed.

I’ve never ridden a direct mount before but I’ve heard that it is supposed to give a crisper gear change. It is also tucked in closer to the wheel meaning its less likely to get damaged.

And for the pros, it allows for a quicker wheel change due to there being more clearance.

It’s also possible to use a standard mount derailleur on a direct mount hanger.

What Is A Clutch Derailleur?

Shimano's GRX and mountain bike rear derailleurs have a clutch mechanism built into it. This eliminates “chain slap”. This happens when you travel over rough ground and the bottom side of your chain begins slapping against your chainstays.

This happens because the rear derailleur moves back and forth with the weight of the chain. The clutch dampens this effect resulting in a more efficient and quieter ride.

I would advise using the same brand derailleurs as your gear levers.

What Crank Should You Get?

The type of crank (the arms that hold your pedals) you need will depend on the type of bottom bracket you have. More on bottom brackets below.

You will need to buy a crank that will go onto or through the bottom bracket with some cranks having the spindle attached.

The other part of the crank that's most important is the length. Some of the most popular sizes are as follows, 165mm, 170mm 172.5mm, 175mm.

These differences don’t sound like much but remember that these lengths are for each crank. That means you double the difference for the length of the crankset.

What's the difference in crank length performance?

It all depends on your size and type of riding. Some say that having a longer crank means that you have more leverage meaning you can put down more power.

However, power (watts/time)is not just a measure of force (watts) meaning applying less force but over a shorter (faster) stroke will equate to the same amount of power.

So it's more important to choose a crank length that suits your size to avoid injury.

How could the right crank length help you avoid injury?

Imagine you’re pedaling a 175mm crank. The distance between top to bottom of stroke is 350mm. If you were to swap these with a pair of 165mm cranks then this is just 330mm.

This will decrease the knee angle at the top of the stroke and for those of you that don’t know, the more you bend your knee, the more shear stress you put through it and the less power you can produce.

This is just top to bottom of stroke. If you take the distance to your hip then the benefits are increased further.

For example if the pedal is 10mm shorter then you will have to adjust your saddle 10mm up which results in even less bending of the knee. It’s hard to explain this in writing but I’ll do my best.

Say, for example, your saddle is 400mm higher than the top of a pedal stroke for a 175mm crank. If you change to a 165mm crank then this will increase to 410mm. But because you will be adjusting your saddle 10mm up then this distance now reaches to 420mm.

This will affect people differently with people over 5ft 11 not really having to care too much about it but the shorter you are the more you will want to consider getting a shorter crank.

This could help avoid knee injuries for those of us who plan to ride long distances. For a more in depth look at this subject click here to be brought to bikedynamics.co.uk

What Spindle length Do You Need?

You also need to be aware of the spindle length. This will be determined by the width of the bottom bracket housing of your bike frame. More on Bottom brackets below.

The spindle is the part that fits through the bottom bracket. For cartridge bottom brackets the cartridge must be the right length.

Most road frames and a bottom bracket housing width of 68mm but some brands opt for more width as it gives more stiffness. Road bike bottom brackets can be as wide as 86.5mm.

Mountain bike cranks are different again with widths ranging from 72mm to 93mm. Buying a crank with a spindle that's too long and your cranks can move from side to side and buying one with cranks too short will mean it wont reach through the BB housing to the other crank.

It is also important to get the right spindle diameter but I speak more about this in the bottom bracket section.

What Type Of Barrel Adjuster Do You Need?

Barrel adjusters are used to adjust the tension of the gear cable as it stretches over time. Sometimes this can be built into either the derailleurs or the gear levers.

If not, they will have to be installed along the line, either as part of the cable housing in a fully enclosed cable or at joining points for systems that have exposed cable in places like under the downtube.

What Pedals Are Best For Adventure Riding?

Flats

These are just flat pedals that you can use with any type of shoe. Some pedals have studs to help stop your feet from slipping off. The downside to these pedals is that they can be pretty heavy and because your feet aren’t attached to the pedal then you can only push down when cycling.

The next two types are known as clipless pedals. A strange name for pedals that clip into your shoe. Do you remember the old straps that used to practically tie your feet to the pedal. The straps were fastened with clips. So that's why this new system is called clipless.

Mountain bike pedals

This is a broad term that takes into account a few types. The most popular are shimano's SPDs.

The cleat (the part that attaches to your bike shoe) clips into either side of the pedal. Once clipped in you can simply clip out by twisting your foot sideways.

These systems allow for your foot to float from side to side without unclipping.

As mentioned, there are so many other types of mountain bike pedals but as I’ve never ridden them I can't comment on them too much. These are a short list of other popular pedals that you might want to check out. 

The greatest advantage of mountain bike shoes for adventure riding is that they’re much easier to walk in. When adventure riding there will always be times when you will have to walk. Whether it be a rocky section or just restocking supplies in a shop.

Road Pedals

Again, there are many brands with one of the most popular (and the only one I have used) is LOOK pedals. Road pedals work similar to their mountain counterpart but with a few obvious differences.

Firstly, you can only clip into one side of the pedal. This is done to reduce weight.

The float angle can be adjusted depending on the cleat used in the shoe. Indeed, you can have a cleat that doesn’t allow any float at all, meaning your foot will be completely rigid to the pedal.

These cleat come in different colors. The colors represent the amount of float your shoe is allowed before you clip out.

• Black is 0 degree float (rigid)
• Grey is 4.5 degree float
• Red is 9 degree float

You will also notice the pedal is wider. This is to distribute the power more evenly.

And it's worth noting the road shoes are not for walking in. They have rigid soles and the cleat protrude out of the bottom of the shoe. If you do end up walking around lots the cleat will quickly wear out.

If you’re interested in finding out more about road pedals/shoes then click on the links below.

Clipless Pedals Explained and best modals reviewed

Pedals Buying Guide

Why Use Clipless Pedals?

Well believe it or not, studies have now shown that clipless pedals have absolutely no advantages over wearing flats.

I know it's hard to believe but check out this video from Dylan Johnson to find out more about the studies.