Your steering setup has only two moving parts, which are the two bearings held at each end of the headtube.

Like everything about choosing bike parts, the stem and handlebar you pick will depend on your style of riding and personal preference. There is always a compromise between comfort and speed in every part of a bike build but there is nowhere this is more evident than at the front of the bike.

So let’s have a look at each element separately so you can consider what you need before buying. I’m just going to focus on what you need and the benefits of each option but if you would like to learn more about how a headset works then click here. This link will also show you the different sizes of headset bearings that are available so you find out which one you need.

I’m also going to focus on non-threaded headset systems because that’s what is being used most today. If you have a retro build and want to learn more about threaded headset systems then the above link will tell you all you need to know.

What Headset Bearing Do You Need?

The bearings in your headtube have two functions. They must allow your forks to turn side to side and they must also hold the fork firm.

The bottom bearing takes the brunt of the forces whenever you’re on the road. That is why some bikes have opted to make the bottom bearing larger than the top.

These bikes have a tapered headtube and are said to have increased stiffness. To tell you the truth it’s been so long since I’ve ridden a standard head tube size that I can’t comment on if they feel different.

I do know an ultra cyclist that went back to riding a standard headtube and he claimed that it makes for a much more comfortable ride. Now, it was a different frame so I don’t know how much of that you could put down to being just the headtube diameters but it does make sense.

The less stiff a frame is then the more comfortable it will tend to be. Sure less stiffness means a loss of power through a frame however, this is an adventure bike we’re building.

We ‘re not going to be laying down lots of power. It’s better to have a comfortable bike so that you will be able to keep moving, albeit at a slightly lesser pace.

Having said all that, the type of bearings you need will have already been decided by your choice of frame and fork. Nevertheless, It’s no harm to know the difference so I will give you a brief lesson on the difference below.

Types Of Headset Bearings

External Headset Bearings

This would be the original threadless design. The bearings are squeezed into a cup which are then squeezed into the top and bottom of the headtube. Similar to a press fit bottom bracket but with external bearing.

Internal Headset Bearings

Internal bearings can have the bearings squeezed directly into the head tube. It’s also possible for internal bearing to be in cups and this cup is pressed into the headtube.

The headtube will have to be designed for this resulting in a must larger headtube diameter which bike designers jump all over allowing them to design faster, stiffer bikes.

Integrated Headset Bearings

Similar to internal bearings in that they are within the headtube but instead of the bearing being squeezed into the frame they use the fork steering tube and to keep it in place.

There is the 45 degree angle on the crown of the fork which the bearing sits on. When the fork is entered through the headtube the bearing is centered when it comes into contact with the inside of the angled seat within the headtube.

Star nut/ compression plug

Once you have your fork fitting snugly through your head tube you will need to secure it. You probably already know this but in case you don’t I’ll give a brief description of how a fork is attached to your frame.

1. The fork steerer in inserted through the headtube

2. Place spacers onto the steering tube to higher the stem up (if required)

3. Place the stem onto the steering tube.

4. The stem or spacer on top should be 2 – 3 mm above the steering tube. 

5. A star nut is pushed into the steering tube. Compression plug for carbon forks.

6. A top cap is placed over the end of the steering tube and a bolt from the top cap screws into the star nut within the steering tube.

7. Once this bolt is tight, the fork is now pretensioned. All that needs to be done now is for the stem to be tightened around the steering tube and the headset is secure.

Star nuts are tricky things to insert into your steering tube. I recommend getting a steering tube tool that will do the job right.

Otherwise take it down to your LBS and ask them to do it for you. I don’t want to scare you but this is one part of the bike that is so easy to mess up.

You must enter the star nut into your steering tube on center and to a specific depth. If you mess it up then best case scenario you just have to get a new star nut.

It’s unlikely you will get it out. They’re designed to go in and stay in. So if you do mess it up the safest thing to do is to just push it further into your steering tube out of the way so that you can fit a new one..

For carbon fork you must not use a star nut. The will dig into the carbon and could damage it resulting in you needing a new fork.

Instead of a star nut you should use what’s known as a compression plug. A compression plug acts the same way as a star nut but is much easier to install. Once you insert the compression plug you just have to turn a bolt to get it to wedge itself within the steerer.

That’s not the only function of a compression plug. It also act as support for when the stem is tightened onto the steerer.

There are a few different types of compression bungs and I suggest contacting the fork supplier to find out which one you need. Using the wrong compression bung can result in the fork steerer being damaged.

Headset Top cap

As already mentioned this part is used to just pretension your headset. After the stem is clamped the top cap isn’t really needed.

For that reason it will be personal preference on which type of top cap you use. Some people get personalized messages to help keep them motivated as it’s right in front of you.

How To Pick The Right Stem

What Length Stem Should You Get?

This is the number one question I get and for good reason. Stem length not only changes how your bike handles but it also has a big impact on rider position and comfort. I hope I don’t over simplify but it’s as simple as this.

Having a shorter stem will make your bike respond quicker when you want to turn. This might sound good but when you’re tired and pedaling uphill the bike tends to rock from side to side more. At least it does for me.

Having a short stem will mean you sitting more upright which should mean you will have less injuries such as neck pain.

Longer stems are, of course, the opposite. You will have smoothing turning and at a much more aerodynamics position but with the risk of injury over time.

Now that you know that, I’ll rephrase the question slightly.

“What length stem should I use for adventure riding”.

To that the answer is simple. Use the length that the bike designers recommended. These designers know their stuff and if they say to use an 80mm stem then who are you to say any different.

Rider position can be changed by using spacers to raise or lower the stem. You can even get stems with different angles. They can also be placed in a positive or negative position.

So assuming your frame is the correct size for you, there is no need to get an extra long stem. You will mess up how the bike designer wanted the bike to feel.

Sure you might get an extra 1m/h faster for the first 100 miles but after that you will be sat at the side of the road with a sore neck. I advise you to get the length recommended for the bike frame and make small adjustments elsewhere if required.

Stem Material

Aluminium is the most popular material due to its affordability and is generally light weight.

Carbon is another option if you have a little extra cash. It’s lighter and is more comfortable than aluminum.

There are even titanium stems which are said to be as comfortable as carbon but stronger. 

Clamping Sizes For Stems

Most steerer tubes are 1 ⅛” diameter but there are some that have 1” tubes. If this is the case then you will have to get a stem that size or use a shim between the stem and steerer tube.

Handlebars are also different diameters. Thankfully the majority of them stick to a standard size which is 25.4mm for mountain bike bars and 26/25.8mm for road handlebars.

However, there are oversized handlebars that have become popular with mountain bike bars and have also started becoming popular with roadies which are 31.8 mm.

So you would be better choosing your handle bar before you choose a stem.

How To Choose Handlebars For Adventure Riding

It’s not uncommon to see a straight mountain bike bar on adventure bikes. Some people just prefer them. If you’re one of those people then the only advice I can give you comes from my MTB experience.

A wider handlebar will give you greater control but you will be catching more air meaning you won’t be very aerodynamic. Try not to go too much wider than you shoulder.

The downside to straight bars is that you only have one position. After riding for hours your shoulder can become pretty sore especially if your hands are wide apart.

Drop Handlebars

These are by far the most common for adventure bikes because they give the best of both worlds. You can get yourself into an aero position if you want and you can ride in relative comfort because there are different positions on the bars.

Just being able to adjust position is in itself a way to increase comfort.

There are other specific areas of the handlebars that you should know about before making a purchase. The info below will help you make an informed decision. Note that some drop handlebars may not have some of the features described below such as flare and backsweep.

What Handlebar Width Do You Need?

This is the most important to get right when buying a drop handlebar. Having a handle that is too wide can cause your wrist to rotate in slightly when riding on the hoods.

This will result in your elbows being locked out. Riding with locked out elbows for a long period of time will result in very sore shoulders and increased neck pain.

Having a narrow drop bar can just feel uncomfortable and you won’t feel as stable on your bike as you should be.

So how do you find the right handlebar width? You need to measure the width of your shoulders.

Just stand up straight and get someone to measure from shoulder to shoulder in cm.

Start and finish at the joint in front of your shoulder. This measurement is then used when buying a handle bar.

Some manufacturers measure their bars from center to center. For these bars you just select a handlebar with the same width as your shoulders. However, there are others that measure their bars from outside to outside. In these cases you will just have to add an extra 2cm to you shoulder width to get the right size. Always check the manufacturers website to check how they measure their handlebar width.

What Is Handlebar Full Width?

So now that you have the important part right it’s now time to look at the full width.

Where the width refers to the width of the tops, the full width refers to the total width of the drops. Having wider drop bars will give you more control on rough terrain and/or on descents.

So with your shoulders in the right position on the tops, where you will probably be doing most of your riding, you will still have the option to open your shoulder slightly when on the drops.

Full width is determined by the flare and outsweep of the drops which I discuss below. It’s possible that the width at the drops are the same as the full width.

Handlebar Material

Again, Aluminum is the most popular choice because of affordability and weight. You can also get carbon bars which are even lighter but are much more expensive.

What Is Handlebar Taper?

This term relates to where the bar tapers (gets smaller) from the stem clamping area. This is seen more on handle bars that have an oversized clamping area.

It’s also common for the bar to taper from a round bar in the area that attaches to the stem into an oval or flat bar where your hands are placed on the tops. Having an oval or flats area on the flats will help reduce the pressure on your hands.

Typical Handlebar Shapes

Classic

A classic handlebar has a gradual curve round to the drops. This gradual curve means the drops will be quite a bit lower than the tops. Although this drop will increase aerodynamics dramatically, it won’t be very comfortable. So I don’t advise a classic drop handlebar because it will be too uncomfortable to use them for an extended period of time. 

Ergo

Ergo, or ergonomic handlebars are better as they don’t have as much drop as the classic. The curve is much sharper in the hood area but the radius opens out to give a flatter place for your hand within the drops.

Some ergo designs have a complete flat section within the drops and then angle back flat at the bottom.

Compact

Compact handlebars are actually quite similar to the classic but their curve is smaller and result in the drop being much less. This makes them much more pleasant to use so you will be more likely to use them.

Handlebar Angles

What Is Handlebar Drop?

This refers to the distance between to the tops and the drops vertically. 

What Is Handlebar Reach?

This is the distance between the tops and to where the brakes are mounted.

What Is Handlebar Flare?

Flare is the angle at the front of the drops as you look straight on at the front of the bike. This angle will move the bottoms of the drops out, increasing the full width of the bars.

They also angle the top of the brake hood in, creating a more natural fit for your hands. This can make it easier for you to reach the brakes from the hoods. At least it does for me but I’ve got small hands.

What Is Handlebar Outsweep?

You can see the outsweep angle if you look straight down at your bars from above. This outsweep along with flare can increase the full width further giving you more stability on rough terrain. They also give a more comfortable angle for your hands to hold.

What Is Handlebar Backsweep?

This is the angle from the stem out to the sides of your top bar as you look down at it. Again, having a back sweep angle can give a more comfortable position for your hands while on the tops.

This is because your wrists will have to rotate to grab a straight bar.

Quick experiment for you. Hold out your hands in front of you now as if you were holding the tops.

See that your wrist will have to rotate inwards if you want to hold a straight bar. Having a back sweep will reduce the need to rotate, reducing the likelihood of injury while at the same time improving comfort.

What Handlebar Tape Do You Need?

Riding all day and gripping onto a hard handlebar will leave you with blisters. Handlebar tape is  wrapped around the bars to cushion the vibrations from the road. They also offer more grip for sweaty hands.

You can get leather, foam and even gel tape. Which is best?

Again, it goes down to personal preference. Some people like the soft feel of foam while others go for long lasting leather.

Handlebar can really finish off the look of a bike so pick a material and color that you won’t mind looking at for hours at a time. 

What Type Of Bar End Caps Are Best?

Bar end caps are used to hold your bar tape in place but there is another more important reason why you must get them.

If in the event of an accident and you happen to fall on to the handlebar end that doesn’t have a bar cap it could stab into you quite easily. Don’t believe me? Check out these photos.

I’ve actually seen this happen on a mountain bike spin a few years ago.

You can get creative here too. Bar end caps can double as a place where you can put tools, lights and even mirrors.