Often an undervalued part of the bike but if you want to improve the comfort of your ride then you will want the right seat post and saddle. 

Before I get into the parts of a saddle and what you should be looking for I just wanted to say that there is no substitute for just spending hours on the saddle to become more comfortable on the bike.

As we all know, your nether regions become “hardened” over time. You only need to spend a few weeks off the bike to realize how important this is. When you get back riding things can be more tender than you remember.

That being said, you still want to find a saddle that fits you well. Not just for your body but for the style of riding you intend on doing. The seat post can also play a big part in this so let’s have a look at the different factors you need to consider when choosing a seatpost and saddle.

Let’s start with seatposts.

What Seatpost Do You Need For Adventure Riding?

Seat post diameters

Check your bike frame. The first thing you need to check is if your frame requires a special shape. For example, Giant Defy frames require a D shaped seat post. An aero bike will have a teardrop shape.

You shouldn’t have to waste time looking for seat posts in these cases because they should be supplied with the frame.

For most other bikes, they will have a circular seat tube. This opens up so many options which I get into below but the most important part you need to know is which diameter you need.

That’s right, different frames have different diameters but it’s not a complete free for all. There are just 3 different sizes you need to choose from (unless it’s an old frame or special build) but you need to get it right if you want your seat post to fit into your frame.

The main sizes are 27.2, 30.9 and 31.6mm. If you are working with an older frame then click here to be brought to Sheldon Brown’s seat post database. The larger sizes claim that the extra stiffness will allow you to transfer more power. The 27.2 offer greater comforts because they bend a little as they are thinner.

Seat Post Shim

If you wanted to use a thinner seatpost but you frame has a bigger diameter then you can use a shim to bridge the gap.

What Length Of Seatpost Do You Need?

The length of the seatpost also needs to be considered. This will depend on the bike geometry and also the length of your legs.

If you’re not sure what length you need then just remember that it’s better to have a seatpost that is too long rather than too short.

A seatpost should insert into a seat tube three to four inches, depending on materials of bike and post and rider weight. If your seatpost isn’t inserted enough then you’re risking damaging your bike frame. I suggest never going lower than four inches (100mm).

When I’m buying a seatpost, and I’m not sure what length I need then I normally buy the longest option (if there is an option). If it’s too long then I will cut it to length to avoid carrying around extra weight for absolutely no reason. 

How to Cut A Seatpost To The Right Length

The process is simple enough. Insert the post and set it to the correct height for you.

Once you’re sure it’s set correctly put a bit of tape around the seatpost just above the seat clamp. Then remove the post and measure the amount of post remaining under the tape.

If it is four to five inches then I leave well enough alone but any more than that then I’ll bring out the hacksaw.

Always be sure you’re cutting in the right place before you begin. Use a carbon hacksaw and guide if your seatpost is carbon.

Make sure there are no jagged edges around the seatpost before entering it into the seat tube. This can be done by rubbing it a bit of fine sandpaper around the edge you’re after cutting.

What Material Seatpost Should You Get?

There are steel, aluminium, carbon and titanium seat posts. 

Steel seat posts aren’t used too much any more. They’re heavy and they have a tendency to rust after a while.

Aluminium has become the most popular choice because they’re cheap, relatively lightweight and don’t rust.

Carbon seat posts are even lighter and absorb vibration making them a comfortable option. The downside to carbon seat posts is the price. They are very expensive and although they’re quite strong, if they do break then you can’t use them. An alu seat post will bend rather than break.

There is another less popular option which is Titanium. This offers all of the benefits of the above materials. It’s lightweight, absorbs vibration, is quite strong and doesn’t rust. It is, however, quite expensive but if you have the extra money and you’re sure you want or don’t want a layback seat post (discussed below) then this is the best option.

What Is A Layback Seatpost?

Not to be confused with setback, which is when the saddle is attached to the seatpost just behind the seatpost center.

Layback is when the seat post is literally bent so you can position your saddle further back on the bike. You might want to do this if you feel you’re riding at a much more upright position than you would like.

By placing your saddle further back this will allow you to get into an aero position more easily. However, this could lead to other problems including injury so I recommend getting a bike fit before buying a seat post with layback.

I suggest only buying a seat post with layback if your bike frame was designed to take it or if you had to buy a frame that was too small for you for some reason.

How Is Your Saddle Attached To Your Seatpost

This is where the saddle is attached to the seatpost. Thankfully this is one area of the bike that most manufacturers decided to work together and stick to the same standard.

Most saddles have two 7mm rails under the seat. These rails are then clamped to the seat post.

This is normally done by placing the rail into two grooves on top or at the sides of the seatpost. A top plate or side plates are then placed over the rails and is then tightened onto them to hold the saddle in place.

This allows the saddle to be moved back and forth the length of the saddle rails before being tightened fully. Some seat posts allow for a tilt of the saddle and this can also be adjusted here before being fully tightened.

Of course there will always be other standards such as oversized saddle rails and other ways to fasten the saddle to the seatpost but for the vast majority of options out there this is the way it is.

What Type Of Seat Clamp Do You Need?

This is the part that tightens the seat post onto your frame. To get the correct diameter measure the area where the seat clamp sits. This may not be the same diameter as your seat tube. Sometimes the diameter is smaller.

Once you know the correct diameter you then have to choose the clamping type. Some clamps just use a bolt to tighten up the clamp. Others use a quick release system which can be very handy for adjusting your saddle height while out on the road.

Which one to go for is entirely up to you. If you’re a weight weenie then you should know that the quick release system is slightly heavier.

So if you know your saddle height is dialed in and you don’t often adjust it then the bolt option will be the best.

However, if you’re planning on doing a lot of off road then a quick release will be better. When the going gets rough I often lower my saddle height (especially when going downhill).

This gives much more control and as a result I feel much safer which allows me to go much faster. I then stop and raise my saddle when I get back on the road.

Do You Need A Dropper Post?

Dropper posts have been around the mountain bike scene for years but they are starting to make their way into road cycling as well, especially in the gravel/ adventure bike sector.

The benefit of having a dropper post is that you can lower the saddle on descends and then raise them again when you want to start pedaling.

However, instead of having to stop to adjust the height of the saddle (like I have to do) this can all be done by a push of a button. 

I have one of these on my mountain bike and I can say that it’s a game changer. The level of control you have once you get the saddle out of the way is great. 

I probably will get one for my gravel bike but there are two things that are stopping me, the first is the price. They’re often 2 -3 times the price of a normal seatpost.

And secondly the weight. They are heavier than a normal seatpost because of all the moving parts. I’m not normally concerned about extra weight but I don’t think I’ll use it enough for it to make sense of carrying one around with me. If I find that I start riding in different places that requires me to adjust my saddle a lot then I’ll probably get one.

Should You Get A Suspension SeatPost?

It’s possible to get a seat post with suspension built in. This is done in a variety of ways from telescopic posts to rubber dampeners.

To be honest, I’ve never ridden one so I can’t comment on how effective they are and to whether or not they improve comfort over a long day in the saddle.

It’s worth noting that they are heavier than a normal seatpost. I may get one in the future so I can update this section if I do. It’s possible to get a dropper post with suspension so I think I will get one of those in the future.

How To Stop Seatpost Slippage

It is common to have seat post slippage. This is when your seat post slides down into your seat tube as you pedal or hit a bump.

There’s a quick fix for this and it’s to get seatpost anti slip paste. I always use this even if I don’t have any slippage issues. The last thing you need to be worried about is your saddle height when riding an ultra distance event.

How To Choose The Right Saddle

Most people think there is some dark art to finding the right saddle that will fit your bottom just right. In reality, there are only a few factors that you need to look for in a saddle.

There isn’t one type of saddle that will fit you well, there are many. The factors below will give you a good starting point. If you have all of the below right and you’re still getting saddle sore then it’s likely you position on the bike and not your saddle at all.

I’ve ridden for days on all sorts of saddles with no issue (except for one expectation) so this proved to me that it’s the rider’s position rather than the saddle that prevents saddle sores.

What Saddle Width Is Right For You?

This is probably the most important aspect to get right when choosing a saddle. To get this right you first must measure the distance between your sit bones. These are the bones in your lower bottom.

If you have no idea what I’m talking about then you can find them by sitting on a hard flat surface and raising their knees to your chest. You will now be sitting solely on your sit bones.

How To Measure Your Sit Bones

There are many ways to measure this. The best would be to get a proper bike fit with an experienced bike fitter. Bike fitters will have a pressure mat that can detect the distance between your sit bones.

However, there is a quick way to measure your sit bones at home with relative accuracy.

You will need is some corrugated cardboard, two marbles (or small balls) and a measuring tape.

• Place the cardboard on the flat hard surface and below knee height.
• Now sit on the cardboard while leaning forward as if you are in the riding position. It is important to try to mimic your riding position as much as possible. If you have a very relaxed position, (your back is 90 degrees to the ground) then sit in this position. You will be sitting on your sit bones in this position. However, if you’re like most cyclists you will lean forward. The more you lean forward the less you will be sitting onr you sit bones. Instead you will now be using your pelvic bones which can be narrower than your sit bones.
• Once you have pressed into the cardboard with your sit bones you should be able to see two dents.
• Put a marble into each of the dent. The marbles should roll to the lowest point in the dent.
• Now just measure the distance between each of the marbles. Center to center. You will now have width of your sit bones.

You can use the info when selecting a saddle. The usable width of the saddle should never be smaller than your sit bone width.

If it is smaller then most of your weight will be sitting on soft tissue which can lead to numbness and circulation issues. For a much more in depth post on the importance of sit bone width then check out this post from bikefit.com

Should You Get A Saddle with Cut Out

Having a saddle with the correct width doesn’t mean you won’t have numbness, especially if you ride in an aggressive position.

As you lean forward there is less pressure on your sit bones and more pressure on the soft perineal tissue. Riding in this position for too long can restrict blood flow and can lead to numb genitals.

I know someone who had done an ultra cycle and had numb genitals for weeks afterwards. Thankfully for him, everything is back to normal now.

Anyway, this is where cut out saddles can help. By removing the part of the saddle that restricts blood flow you can now sit forward without worrying about having numb genitals. 

Why are there different sizes of cut out?

The saddle is a symmetrical object. However, our bodies are asymmetrical. Some more than others.

If your hips are perfectly aligned then a small cut out will work for you. If your hips are tilted or your hips rotate while you cycle then a small cut out is actually worse than having none.

This is because the saddle has less surface area to hold you up, meaning there will now be more pressure on your soft areas. In cases like this a larger cut out can work well or they can make things even worse if your hips are way out.

Although I have never really suffered from numbness in the genital area I have used cut outs before, just to see if they could improve my comfort, and to be honest I found them to be slightly more uncomfortable.

You see, because there is less area to distribute my weight the sit bone area was under more pressure so I became numb in that area a lot faster than I would have without the cut out. So that’s why I don’t use a cut out.

If you use a standard saddle with no cut out and you experience some numbness in the genitals then try this before running out and getting a new saddle with a cut out.

Just tilt your saddle forward slightly. This will lower the front of the saddle, the part that presses against your perineal tissue. This should relieve some pressure. You may have to lower your saddle height when you do this depending on how much you rotate it. 

Does Your Saddle Need Padding?

Having too much padding can often result in numbness and saddle sores. People new to cycling often have trouble understanding this. Softer means more comfort, right?

Wrong!

My wife bought me an exercise bike a few years back. Think it was something to do with us having kids and she wanted me to spend more time at home.

Anyway, the saddle was this big padded thing that resembled more a bar stool than a saddle. 20 minutes into the ride and my whole ass was numb. It completely restricted blood flow to my entire buttock area.

This was an important lesson to me that padding doesn’t increase comfort. This doesn’t mean I ride hard saddles but instead of looking for soft padding and instead look for saddles that can flex.

This is why Brooks saddles are so comfortable. They are made from leather which doesn’t have padding but flexes.

What Type Of Rails Should You Look For In A Saddle?

The saddle rail is what supports the shell of your saddle so this will greatly affect the feel of your saddle.

There are 3 main materials that you can get for your saddle. The most common is chromoly steel. They are relatively inexpensive and they have a nice flex feel to them.

If you would like to go lighter, you can get hollow titanium rods and for the lightest option you can go for carbon.

As I mentioned before, carbon doesn’t have much tensile strength so materials like kevlar are used to help strengthen the rails. It’s also worth noting that carbon rails aren’t normally round. Instead of having a 7mm circular rail they are often 7mm by 9mm oblong shape so your seatpost will need to be designed to use them.

Of course the lighter you go then more expensive the saddle. Having a carbon railed saddle will also mean you will have the stiffest option which isn’t always the best option for adventure riding.

Remember, flex in certain areas can give a more comfortable ride.